John Lobb shoemakers is a highly respected manufacturers in the British shoemaking hub of Northampton, a city that became famous as a core of the shoe industry in the 1600s. Although it became part of the Hermes Group in 1976, the factory continues to uphold the traditional production process developed in the 19th century.
Technology is used, but sparingly. For instance, leather cutting is still performed by hand rather than with lasers. Instead, lasers create plastic patterns, which are handed to specialized artisans called clickers. Their title comes from the distinctive “click” of the knife striking the cutting table. With traditional knives, they shape the leather in the old-fashioned way.
Production is limited, with only 450–500 pairs made each week. This approach resembles bespoke work. Employees work on multiple models daily, instead of repeating one routine step like in typical factories. Every shoe is built with the Goodyear method, allowing the worn sole to be changed without damaging the upper.
In line with Hermes, John Lobb sources the best-quality hides, particularly from young French calf hides. Only about sixty percent is usable for uppers, while the remainder becomes supporting details.
The collection combines heritage designs with subtle refinements. The classic City II model, for instance, have been given a more elegant outline. The Sennen shoes gained longer straps and a more robust foundation. The Lopez model, introduced in 1950, received subtle color and sole innovations. Newer icons include the Porth trainers and the Levah shoes, which are offered annually in various colors and materials.
Through its dedication to craftsmanship, John Lobb stands as a benchmark in the British footwear industry.
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